The Natural Park of Sierra María-Los Vélez, which is the northernmost in the province was declared a Natural Park in 1987. It covers some 22,500 hectares of outstandingly beautiful landscape which combines rugged areas with lush scenery and mountains which are snow clad in winter and contrast with the barren desert landscape which is characteristic in Almería.

The biodiversity of vegetable species includes more than 1,200 plants with holm oak populations, which grow at 1,000 meters in altitude, being one of the most representative. Also widespread are two species of pine: black and swamp pines.

The area also provides shelter to a wide range of endemic animal species and birds of prey, such as Spanish imperial, booted, and short toed eagles, common buzzards, hawks, goshawks and peregrine falcons. Griffon vultures are also being reintroduced.

Mammals are also abundant in these forests. Of special note are Spanish wild cats, genets, foxes, polecats which share their habitat with red squirrels and other reptiles.

The town of María itself is surrounded by interesting countryside and can be used as a starting point for numerous routes through the Natural Park. Its wide fields of corn and almond trees at the foot of the sierra change their colour in the different seasons. After taking a break in the recreational areas of La Piza and Los Alamicos, we can climb up to the vantage point of the Mirador del Cerrico to enjoy the spectacular view.

Taking the road to Orce, after one kilometre we turn to the left and find a forest track which leads to the 16th century shrine dedicated to the Virgen de la Cabeza. The sanctuary is an important site for religious pilgrimages and the traditional one which bears the name of the Virgin starts here. Next to the shrine there is a good view of the black pine forest, the altiplano (raised plateau) and the limestone outcrops and gully-washers.

Parking by the shrine, visitors can walk to the Botanical Gardens which are situated on the northern side of the sierra. The landscape here is characterised by large forested areas, with old pines and remains of populations of holm oaks. Higher up, there are numerous outcrops and craggy rocks with abundant endemic species. It is in the heart of this lush area that the Botanical Gardens of the Natural Park Sierra María-Los Vélez is situated.

The northern exposure or umbria offers one of the best settings for visiting the area as it is provided with recreational areas, well signposted paths and vantage points with good views of the scenery. Other places of interest for visitors are the old Arab water cisterns and the ?snow? wells where the snow fallen during the winter was stored and then sold in coastal areas for fish conservation.

Taking the road to Orce once again, we come across the Centro de Interpretación de la Naturaleza Mirador de la Umbría (a visitors? centre with a vantage point offering views to the Umbria) on the right, which offers information about the ecosystems along with the traditions and customs of the area.

Back on the C-321, we continue until we reach an entrance to a forest track leading to La Dehesa de Alfaguara, where we can take a rest and a drink of water before carrying on to the Mirador de Vereda Alta.

La Dehesa de Alfaguara is the most important area of forest in the Sierra María-Los Vélez Natural Park. Situated on the northern foothills, it has been a carefully protected area since the feudal times of the Marquis of Los Vélez. One of the richest parts of the park in fauna and flora, the area has abundant old pines and thickets.

It is also rich in water springs and the name Alfaguara is an Arab word which means fountain or spout.

However, the Muslims were not the only ones who were captivated by the beauty of this landscape and there is documented evidence that there were various Roman settlements in the area.

This area of the Park was protected by order of King Philip II following a proposal put forward by the Marquis of Los Vélez in 1591 for preventing the forests from being overexploited as large quantities of wood were needed to cater for lime and charcoal kilns, and glass-ovens. Extensive erosion was also being caused by cattle droving and indiscriminate tree cutting.

Today the place is an important centre for inland tourism, particularly as it offers the recreational area of Los Alamicos, where the nurseries of the Natural Park, containing a broad selection of the flora of the area, are also to be found.

Those who have plenty of time and are keen to enjoy the spectacular views to the full, can follow the María-Orce road again, taking a left turn in the Cortijada de Casablanca until arriving in Chirivel. The town is within the Natural Park itself, and has a little known feature, an unusual millennial tree, a Savine, at 1,600 meters in altitude, from where we can enjoy the views of the beautiful countryside.

The area known as the Corredor de Chirivel (the Corridor of Chirivel) is also worth a visit. It is a wide valley surrounded by hilly escarpments with a gully ­ the Barranco de Alamí - where we can find the recreational area of El Mojonar.